AVAVAV SS24 : Beate Karlsson's Milan Fashion Week Sensation

Beate Karlsson, a Swedish designer hailing from Stockholm, took the fashion world by storm with her unconventional approach. After studying fashion at Parsons School of Design in New York and Central Saint Martins, she cut her teeth as an accessories designer at Coach and later as a stylist at Pyer Moss. In 2020, she landed the role of Creative Director at AVAVAV, a haute couture house, tasked with giving the brand a fresh identity.

AVAVAV, founded in 2017 by Swedish duo Linda and Adam Friberg, is a Scandinavian ready-to-wear brand based in Florence. Their unique approach involves recycling fabric remnants from haute couture to create luxury pieces accessible to a broader audience.

Fast forward to Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, and Karlsson's influence was undeniable. Models rushed down the runway, their outfits in disarray, mascara-streaked faces portraying the fashion industry's relentless pace.

But this wasn't just a spectacle; it was a commentary. Phrases like "ADD BACK?!" scrawled on T-shirt sleeves and "Filthy Rich" tattoos were a satirical take on the industry's obsession with excess. Sharpie slogans and post-it note couture added a touch of humor, reminding us of the endless to-do lists designers face.

The models, in their frenzied state, embodied Karlsson's message. Topless, barefoot, or wearing boxes as outfits, they symbolized the chaos of the fashion world. AVAVAV's SS24 collection was sarcastic, and unapologetically bold. Beate Karlsson had become a disruptor, challenging industry norms while keeping her sense of humor intact. And that's what we love at BØWIE.

As Milan Fashion Week concluded, AVAVAV's chaotic yet thought-provoking display lingered in our minds. It served as a reminder that fashion should be daring, fun, and a form of self-expression. In a world with "No Time to Design, No Time to Explain," AVAVAV, under Beate Karlsson's leadership, reminded us that fashion should break the rules and leave us in awe.

Photos by Umberto Fratini